Once considered mere background decoration, this technique has been promoted to the face of the Millenary caliber 4101.
Its name evokes the magnificent gleaming orbs of a pirate’s deep-sea treasure, but perlage (also know as circular graining or stippling) has long been considered a lesser form of adornment. “It’s a pattern of tightly overlapping, concentric circles created with a revolving, abrasive peg. In general, the technique is used to camouflage the unpolished parts of a movement, such as the bridges, plates and recesses. But here at Audemars Piguet, it’s more and more valued,” says Sylvain Freiholz, manager of the pre-assembly and movement workshop, which includes decoration, at the Manufacture AP.
For the past eight years, Freiholz’s team of six experts has used the technique on about 25,000 movements annually. The work is done by hand, using a machine equipped with a rotating peg that is lowered to mark the part’s surface. The decorator-watchmaker uses varying pressure to determine the luster and design of the graining. “By mastering this technique, we’re able to create patterns and textures that are increasingly beautiful,” he explains.
Aware of the aesthetic potential of this traditional decoration, the AP designers have become more interested in highlighting it. It can be found, for example, as a subtle touch on the balance of the caliber 3120. But it’s on the new Millenary 4101, on the market only a few weeks, that it can be seen in all its splendor because it appears on the face of the watch. In the future, according to Freiholz, it’s highly likely that this technique will be used in even more daring ways.
[ + ]
November 23, 2011
The exquisite melody of time
In his workshop, Dominique Burdet creates, one part at a time, Grand Complications minute repeaters that are ever more highly prized by collectors.
A low-pitched bell for each hour. Two medium-pitched bells for each quarter-hour and a single, higher-pitched bell for each minute of the final quarter hour. These are the crystalline sounds that ring out on demand, at the heart of Audemars Piguet timepieces.
This highly complicated mechanism was created by Dominique Burdet’s team in the Grand Complications Workshop at the Manufacture in Brassus. “We produce the Jules Audemars and Royal Oak minute repeaters, as well as a pocket model. Each watch requires between 700 and 1,000 hours of work, which means we rarely make more than three per year and per watchmaker,” says master watchmaker Burdet, who has worked for the brand in the Vallée de Joux for almost 20 years.
The movement parts are delivered unfinished, then polished and assembled one by one. The slightest error would have repercussions on the melody of time. “To create a beautiful sound, you need a lot of experience and expertise. The watch is patiently tuned, like a musical instrument, and must always strike the correct number of times. To accomplish this you must arm the movement with enough force to power a spring that operates the hour, the quarter-hours, the half-hour and the minutes that follow,” he explains.
For the past few years, the interest of collectors and enthusiasts in this type of model has grown, particularly for the pocket watch which now has a waiting list. “Owners regularly visit our workshop. They love to tell us about their relationship with their minute repeater, the pleasure they get from hearing it ring and from surprising their family and friends with it,” Burdet says with a smile.
[ + ]
October 31, 2011
“Time and precision have always been two key factors for me”
Legendary racecar driver and watch enthusiast Michael Schumacher is still very involved in the sport of car racing. Interview.
A living legend in car racing. This is what repeatedly comes to mind when the name Michael Schumacher is brought up. That’s to be expected; with seven world champion titles, 68 pole positions, 91 victories and 154 podiums, the 42-year-old German driver has the most impressive record in the sport. He talks with Audacity about his memories, his projects and his relationship with time…
Michael Schumacher, what were the best moments of your career?
The emotional ones. Among the many memories of my career, the most astounding is probably the moment when I crossed the Suzuka 2000 finish line, winning not only the Japanese GP, but more importantly, the world champion title for Ferrari. It was 21 years after Ferrari had had a driver`s title, and it was also the culmination of 5 years of waiting, trying and fighting for myself. Winning the title was just an explosion of joy.
And the worst moments?
In 1994, that horrible weekend when we lost two drivers. I remember the shock of losing Ayrton Senna and Roland Ratzenberger. For me, the era when people died on the racetrack was behind us, but then I had to experience that I was wrong. It was terrible.
What are your current projects?
I’m currently collaborating with Mercedes to develop a team and a car that will win races, and eventually championships. It’s not easy to develop a car that will win, but that`s what life is about: embracing challenges and trying to work them into something good.
As a racecar driver, you must have a very special relationship with time and precision: what is your opinion about Swiss watchmaking, and particularly a brand such as Audemars Piguet?
Time and precision have always been two key factors for me. They’re sometimes even my enemies, as I am obviously trying to master them both! Striving for perfection is in my character. In my view it corresponds perfectly with Audemars Piguet, who combines tradition and innovation to build and create something extraordinary. I can identify with that commitment perfectly.
Finally, who are your role models, in sports or in other areas?
I have to admit I do not really have role models. What I find intriguing are people who live out their passions. This is possible in any area of life. What really matters is not fame, but passion.
[ + ]
October 24, 2011
“I never look back and ask myself how things might have been”
Thirty-eight year old British golfer Lee Westwood is one of the most successful players on the tour. His next goal: to win back his status as the world’s number one player. Interview.
Skill, mental toughness, discipline, commitment and, above all, consistency and versatility: these are the qualities that allowed Lee Westwood to take Tiger Woods’ place at the summit of the world’s golf hierarchy last October, becoming the 5th European player to attain the number one ranking. For Audacity, the British golfer agreed to comment on his career, his projects and his passions.
You have spent many years on the international tour. What are some of your best memories?
There are too many to mention! But you never forget your first win, and the Ryder Cup memories are indelibly etched in my mind. But hopefully my best memories are still to come.
And the worst?
I am a very positive person. I never look back and think what might have been. Hopefully I have learned from all the negatives I have experienced.
What are your objectives for the coming year?
Ever since I lost my number one ranking, I’ve wanted to win it back. That’s my goal, and winning tournaments will allow me to reach it. Next year, I’d really like to move into the Grand Slam club. And, as always, my main objective is the majors.
What do you think about the Swiss watchmaking industry and Audemars Piguet?
I don’t think there is anywhere else in the world that makes watches as well as Switzerland. Audemars Piguet’s watches have a fantastic look, and I love wearing one on my wrist.
You’re known for your love of champagne. Where did this passion come from?
I’m not a collector, but more a drinker – in moderation, of course! If I ever have anything to celebrate, then a glass of bubbly is definitely the best way to start …
You’re also a big football fan. Why did you end up choosing to play golf?
I would have really liked to play left wing for Nottingham Forest. That was not to be. As soon as I realized that I could have a future as a golfer, all my attention was turned to that.
[ + ]
October 18, 2011
“The quest for success is what drives me”
After his recent US Open victory, young Irish golfer Rory McIlroy confirms his status as a rising star. Here’s an interview.
Twenty-two year old Rory McIlroy has already been part of the golf world’s top tier for two years. He was the youngest golfer in history to obtain professional status on the European tour, and on June 19, he won the 111th edition of the US Open. In his peers’ opinion, this title will likely be just the first in a long string of victories.
In view of your precocious results and your youth, you’re often compared with Tiger Woods. How are you different as players?
The main difference is in our records: Tiger has won 14 majors and I’ve only won one… but I aim to improve these statistics! We have much more in common, and the main thing is that we both want to win just as much as we possibly can. The quest for success is what drives us.
What are your objectives for the coming months?
It’s been a very good year so far, and I aim to make it even better. As for next year, I have four major goals – the US Masters, US Open, The Open and the US PGA.
What do you think about the Swiss watchmaking industry, and Audemars Piguet in particular?
For me, Switzerland is synonymous with watches and clocks; nobody does it better. As for Audemars Piguet, I was a big fan even before the brand became a sponsor. They’re the embodiment of style, class, and reliability.